Korea’s Demilitarized Zone, a tourist attraction? The no-man’s-land that divides communist North and democratic South, the place where that heat ray blasted in the James Bond movie Die Another Day? Who would be crazy enough? If you’re a fan of modern history and warfare, or just curious to experience one of the last remnants of the cold war, then the Demilitarized Zone may be just the attraction for you.

The DMZ is a 4 kilometer-wide zone that stretches along the 458-kilometer long Military Demarcation Line (MDL). The governments of both North and South Korea have agreed to withhold areas occupied by the other back in 1953, at the informal end of the Korean War when the armistice was signed. Now home to some 2 million soldiers, the DMZ acts as a buffer zone between the two sides, and is one of the most heavily fortified borders in the world.

Visitors need to book in advance with one of a few companies to secure a tour in the DMZ. One such tour operator is the United Service Organization (USO), the non-profit organization which provides morale and recreational services to the US military. As your tour bus approach the zone along a modern superhighway, you notice that there is less vehicular traffic; the last few miles are virtually deserted. Border soldiers are stationed in Camp Bonifas, where access for the most part is restricted. The tour also includes a drive-by past the Bridge of No Return, used for prisoner exchange at the end of the Korean War. This bridge was so-named because prisoners were given a choice to cross over back to their homeland or remain with their captors; if they chose the latter, however, they can never go back home. You constantly feel the tension throughout the tour, from the constant security checks to the stern exchange of looks between opposing soldiers. Many displays of aggression and saber-rattling have taken place in the DMZ, some of which have resulted in death and further tension between the soldiers of the opposing armies.

The best place to experience the DMZ is Panmunjeom, a community some 55 kilometers north of Seoul which directly connects the two Koreas. Panmunjeom is home to the Joint Security Area (JSA), the site where all negotiations have been held since 1953. The MDL cuts through buildings, rooms, and even conference tables where North Koreans and the United Nations Command meet face to face. Another place to explore is the North Korean tunnels discovered under the border. If you are unable to join a tour to the zone, the nearest you can get is at Imjingak, just a few miles from the border. A lookout post in the museum has a direct view of the desolate area; try looking for the tallest flagpole in the world, over at the North Korean side. A final place to visit are the infiltration tunnels constructed by the North Koreans. These tunnels, which would have allowed divisions of personnel and vehicle to pass under the DMZ, are now open for public exploration.

Video Credit: botosaniursus99

Surprisingly, a diverse ecosystem has formed during the 55-year existence of the DMZ. As an invasion precaution, the Civilian Control Zone population is kept low, and few personnel treading over the area at the risk of getting shot. This has led to an involuntary sanctuary of the rare red-crowned crane, Chinese water deer, spotted seal, and many other species which thrive among the wetlands and grasslands.

The DMZ is one of South Korea’s most visited destinations, attracting more than 180,000 people every year. To reserve a spot in the DMZ tour, you may visit the U.S.O.’s website or make a call to their Korean offices. You can pay on the day of the tour itself, along with signing several waivers and forms. Take note that the Korean War never formally ended. An armistice was declared but that really means a cessation of hostilities; no permanent truce has ever been signed. This means that the war can resume any second, adding a certain thrill in your visit. In fact, North Korean forces have intruded past the DMZ in many occasions throughout its history, but the communist government has never admitted to these acts of transgressions. All this means that you shouldn’t attempt to annoy or evoke a response from the North Korean guards. Heaven forbid you may end up in the middle of a shooting war.

Posted in Attractions, Korea

This entry was posted on Monday, February 23rd, 2009 at 8:08 pm and is filed under Attractions, Korea. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.