If you want to relax after work or touring in Japan, why not try an Izakaya? Izakayas are drinking establishments which also serve a substantial amount of food as compared to a bar or snack shop. The name means “I-”, which means to stay over, and “zaka-ya”, or sake shop. It suggests that customers may stay in the premises after buying sake. Izakayas are also called Akachochin (red lantern), as these paper lanterns are commonly found hanging in front of these establishments. These places are important venues for socializing, where men drink sake and beer after work; tens of thousands of these shops operate in Tokyo alone. Some izakayas are starting to appeal to the female and student population by serving cocktails within posh interiors.

A typical izakaya has divided curtains hanging outside the entrance. These curtains are much more than door substitutes; passed down from generation to generation, these heirlooms are sources of pride for families who own these establishments and are used to announce that the izakayas are open for business. Upon entering the izakaya, patrons are heartily greeted by the staff with “Irasshai!” (Welcome!), and usually given an oshibori (wet towels) for cleaning of the hands. Then a small otoshi (appetizer) is served, its cost automatically added to the final bill in lieu of an entrance fee. Food is ordered after the initial round of drinks is served. Diners are seated along a table and unlike other forms of Japanese meals, the food are shared by everyone at the table. Good izakayas have many meals available in the menu, and to mark the end of a drinking session, a final meal of noodles or rice is shared (these rice-based meals are usually not eaten while drinking sake as this rice-based alcohol takes its place during the session). Izakayas also serve a variety of beverages other than the popular sake, like beer shochu and chuhai.

The highlight of the izakaya evening is the menu items, food designed for sharing while alcohol is consumed. The grilled items are normally prepared in a sand pit with charcoal logs forming a tripod and skewered meat sticking out of the sand. Here are some of the meals that can be found in these establishments:

Tempura - seafood or vegetables that are dipped in batter before deep-frying, then served with a dipping sauce or daikon radish. Tempura was introduced by the Portugese back in the 16th century, and is now a world-wide favorite.

Tsukemono (pickled things) - delightful pickles, variations of which are available as samplers. Salt or brine are commonly used for pickling, although vinegar, soy sauce, and other solutions may also be used to pickle daikon, Chinese cucumber, turnip and cucumber. Tsukemono may also be used to garnish okonomiyaki or takoyaki.

Yakizakana - grilled fish. Grilled chicken is called yakitori. Many species of fish can be prepared using a grill, and many parts of a chicken are served the same way.

Agedashi tofu - deep-fried tofu pieces that are dipped in soy sauce.

Yuba sushi - this sushi roll is made from soft yuba tofu skin that is wrapped around spears of avocado and cucumber.

Karaage –  Japanese-style fried meat, enjoyed by the population all-year round. Small pieces of meat, usually soy-flavored chicken, are marinated in a blend of soy sauce, garlic and ginger. The dipping sauce may be a slice of lemon or mayonnaise.

Hiyayako –  a popular dish made with chilled tofu and toppings, like green onions with katsuobushi (dried skipjack tuna flakes) and soy sauce.

Edamame – baby soybeans in a pod prepared by boiling them in salt water. Five-spice powder may be used for flavoring.

There is a traditional sequence in ordering food in an izakaya, which begins with raw fresh fish (sashimi), followed by a grilled item, a steamed entrée, a simmered dish, a fried meal, and dressed salad. The sequence ends with an option of rice, pickles, miso soup, and tea.

If there are less than 5 people in your group, seating shouldn’t be a problem but booking for a table is recommended on Friday nights, nights before holidays, and December. If the Izakaya you visit is crowded, it is better to find another shop rather than wait for a vacancy, especially if the waiting list is long. Izakayas usually open at around 5pm and close between 11pm to 5am the next day. If you are not that versed in Japanese, the menus typically have images of the food available, so you may point them out to your waiter. Finally, take note that drinking alcoholic beverages under 20 years of age is prohibited in Japan.

Itadakemasu!

Posted in Food, Japan

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