What DO they call Chinese food in China? Just “food”? If so, what do they call Peking Duck in Beijing?

It’s Peking Kao Ya.

Peking Duck stands out in a country that has created a whole slew of great dishes, as it is a delicacy that has been served on the tables of emperors for generations. First mentioned by an imperial food inspector in the 14^th century, this roasted duck variation was served exclusively for the imperial court until the 15^th century, when restaurants surrounding the capital city started cooking it for the public, as well.

The roasting process isn’t that unusual: the bird is hung over an open oven and rotated for hours until a shiny deep red skin color is attained, a process borrowed from the roasting of suckling pig. The unique flavor that makes Peking Duck special starts from the type of duck used; it is the White Beijing variety, which grows up to be large and plump. Newborn duckling are raised free-range style for 45 days, then force-fed 4 times a day for the next 15-20 days. When the birds reach 5-7 kgs. in weight, they are dressed, removed of their entrails (which are kept for later dishes), and, in a critical step, pumped with air to separate the skin from the fat. Specialized chefs are assigned to perform this delicate task to make sure the birds are properly sealed during the inflation. The ducks are then hung to dry for 24 hours, while being glazed with a sugar solution, after which roasting is commenced.

A whole duck is carved in front of eager diners by an expert chef, who will proceed to make over a hundred slices in as little as 4 minutes with each slice having about the same amount of crispy skin and tender flesh. There is a ritual accompanying the eating of Peking Duck: a customer will hold open a thin pancake and, using a spring onion as a brush, proceed to spread a layer of plum sauce over it. The spring onion is then placed on the pancake together with slices of duck and the whole thing is wrapped and eaten like a burrito. The crunchiness of the skin mixes well with the tenderness of the flesh and the textures brought in by the sauce and the vegetables to create a taste explosion in the mouth, and a hundred slices won’t seem enough to satiate the palate.

Borrowing other ideas from roasted suckling pig, a Peking Duck chef will use the leftover duck parts in as many as 80 meals. Portions like the head, webbings, wings, and innards are stewed, boiled, steamed and fried, and served together with the Peking Duck to make an all-duck feast.

The best restaurants that serve Peking Duck are specialty places found in Beijing, and the best seasons for eating it are spring, autumn, and winter. You can try Quanjude Restaurant, the largest roast duck restaurant in the capital. A single duck can feed up to 10 people, though couples and smaller groups can order half a duck and have the rest wrapped. Local beer goes great with the dish.

So anytime you find yourself in Beijing (like now at the ongoing Beijing Olympics 2008), reserve a night for Peking Duck. Duck season has never been so succulent!

Posted in China, Food

This entry was posted on Monday, August 11th, 2008 at 1:43 pm and is filed under China, Food. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.