Three Countries In Ten Days: Ornate Carvings At Banteay Srei
July 17th, 2009 by Kitci WongBANTEAY SREI, SIEM REAP (CAMBODIA) – We were still floating in cloud 9 from our visit to Angkor Wat when we realized that we spent several hours exploring the majestic temple.
We checked the brochures and travel book that we just bought from a persistent young boy. We were trying to figure out where to head next. Mr. Sambo, our English speaking guide, suggested that we visit another temple which is located far from the city center. He was referring to Banteay Srei. Given that Banteay Srei is located about an hour away from Angkor Wat, we were asked to pay an additional US$ 10.00 for the tuk-tuk’s gasoline consumption. My partner and I were game for anything so we decided to go for it. If you plan to visit any of the far temples, make sure that you settle the fee first and expect to pay additional because of the distance.
You can start from your hotel in Siem Reap like the Allson Angkor Paradise Hotel. The tuk-tuk ride allowed us to enjoy the fresh cool breeze and we were able to have a clearer view of the different sights on the way to our destination. We saw locals going about their daily work as well as different forms of architecture. The only setback that we encountered during the trip was the extreme heat from the sun. But then we figured, we would rather have the heat than heavy pouring rains.
Mr. Sambo’s calculations were right because we arrived in front of the entrance of Banteay Srei after forty five minutes. There were a lot stalls selling different merchandise including scarves, books, pillow cases, skirts, blouses, and dresses among others. If you bargain hard enough, vendors will sell two scarves for one dollar. This is a steal given that we bought a scarf for two dollars when we were at Angkor Thom. When we reached the entrance of Banteay Srei, a guard approached us to validate our tour pass.
Our tour passes cost forty dollars each and this pass was valid for two to three days.
Banteay Srei is also a favorite destination among tourists who do not mind traveling 20 kilometers North from Angkor. This temple can be found at the foot of the Kulen Mountains. The name of this breathtaking temple means “Citadel of the Women” or “Citadel of Beauty.” But if the true name of the temple if based on the central linga was Tribhuvanamahesvara or “Great Lord of the Threefold World.”
This temple was built sometime during the second half of the 10th century during the reign of Rajendravarman. Even if Banteay Srei is not a royal temple, it is still considered the “Jewel of Khmer Art” because of its splendor. It is not as big as Angkor Wat but its physical attributes are comparable to all the other temples.
When we found ourselves right at the entrance, I was caught by surprise by how small it looked. We could already see the back walls from the entrance! The temple itself is surrounded by a moat which means that you have to walk over a causeway that was built over the body of water. We entered through what they referred to as the town gopura, the largest in this temple. We continued to walk on until we reached a causeway leading to the next enclosure. In this part, we noticed the pavement was lined on both sides with stone boundary posts that are about thirty two inches tall. It was also interesting to see what was left of the sculpture of a bull Nandi in a sitting position.
We could not stop marveling at the temple which was lavishly decorated with intricate carvings which were scattered around the temple! It was hard to believe that these carvings have been there for hundreds and hundreds of years. I simply could not help myself from touching the ornate carvings and feel the history behind each stroke and detail. There are three tower shrines within the temple grounds. These towers are made from red sandstone wherein the tallest tower measures about ten meters high.
Banteay Srei could be quite small compared to Angkor Wat but it sure can compete when it comes to its beauty and charm. It is so small that you would think that it was built for a private group of people only.
There used to be a time when Banteay Srei was not accessible to visitors as there have been cases of bandits in the area. We felt lucky that the place is now secure for tourists. It is easy to feel safe because of the mob of people who visit the place every hour. Banteay Srei’s popularity sometimes makes it difficult to take clear shots of the temple without people obstructing the view.
We would have to admit that visiting Banteay Srei is one of the highlights of our trip to Siem Reap. All the charming carvings and magnificent reddish structures made the trip through the Cambodian countryside worth every bit of time and effort.
It would be nice for all visitors of Siem Reap to take time to visit Banteay Srei and re-live our memorable experience!



Exhibiting remnants of 7 ancient cities, is the capital city of India,
July 28th, 2009 at 4:53 pm
The carvings of that temple is so detailed!!! it’s really amazing!!!