If Buddhists believe they will be reincarnated until they reach Nirvana, then why is there a Buddhist hell? It turns out that hell for Buddhists is a place for purgation before being reincarnated, where sinners spend an unbelievable amount of time being tortured by demonic entities. If you want to see what Buddhist Hell looks like, go to Thailand. Specifically, there’s a temple near Bangsaen Beach, just 90 minutes away from Bangkok, where scenes of sinners in the afterlife can discourage young and old from leading a life of transgressions. It is called Wang Saen Suk, and it is the largest hell garden in Thailand.

As the various displays and sculptures in Wang Saen Suk graphically describes it, after you die, you first get an audience with the Death King. Four celestial beings check all your good deeds (which are written on a gold plate) and your bad deeds (which are written on a dog’s skin, an act which won’t be written on the gold plate, if PETA has anything to say about it). If you are found worthy, the Death King sends you to heaven; if not, it’s Buddhist Hell for you. There is even a scene where a young couple is kneeling before the Death King, their hands held together as if pleading their fate before this terrible judge.

Hell is thought of be a series of 8 large pits with 16 attachments each, making a total of 136 horrific arenas of punishment. The garden greets visitors with a sign that reads, “Welcome to hell!”, before showing them ghastly sculptures of sawn torsos and demons torturing sinners. The centerpiece of the garden is two giant sinners: a thin man with protruding ribs and a swollen woman with sagging breasts. A nearby signboard suggests that to avoid sharing a similar fate, Buddhists can start working on their merits by donating each day. 21 other sculptures decorate the site, life-sized humans with animal heads that fit their sins. The corrupt, for example, has a pig’s head, while thieves are transformed into monkeys. Even environmental transgressions are addressed here, way before the green movement turned into a global concern. Those who destroy the wilderness are turned into deer or elephants.

Next come disturbing scenes of those who violate the 5 precepts of Buddhism, which is equivalent to the 10 commandments among Christians. Killers get their innards pecked at by birds. One special pit is reserved for those who hurt their parents or monks, a place of freezing cold conditions and bleak darkness.

Wang Saek Suk may be the largest hell garden in Thailand, but by no means is it the only one. In the ancient city of Sukhothai, a monk had earlier built a smaller garden at Wat Thawet. Similar sculptures of sinners having animal heads and visited with torture are also displayed here. Both gardens may be upsetting, but they are actually popular family destinations in the country. Not only are they reminders of strict morality, but are also ways to encourage believers to gain merits by making donations to the monasteries.

Wang Saen Suk and other hell gardens are fascinating places to explore as it gives you a glimpse as to how Buddhists perceive hell. Some punishments are very similar to Christian Hell, but the fun is in noticing the differences between the two concepts (for one thing, there is a penalty when a wife kills her husband, but no corresponding punishment if the situation was reversed). To get to Wang Saen Suk from Sukhumvit Road, take a right turn at Kilometer 104 and proceed for another 3 kilometers approaching Bangsaen Beach. The temple is near the beach, so just follow the crowd. Try dropping by during the early morning to avoid the crowds, and mind that you give offerings to the temple; at the very least, it will improve your merits. If you have time, try visiting the nearby Khao Keow Open Zoo, which has a similar concept as Safari Zoo in Thailand but its much more affordable. Having a car allows you to explore the 400 acres of attractions at the zoo, but you can also take the guided tram ride, rent a bicycle or even a golf cart to get around the place. You can also visit Bangsaen Beach itself, a very popular resort which gets crowded during holidays. Besides the expected assortment of sun beds, beach umbrellas and banana boats, there is also a cape called Laem Taen which serve as a public park.

Posted in Attractions, Thailand

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